THE TASTE OF TIME: Stories poured from the palm
- Jonell Gregorio
- Jan 6
- 6 min read
A Multimedia Story by Diana Joy Matutina and Ericka Vitto
For generations, communities around the Philippines have revered the coconut tree as the “Tree of Life.” From its root to its fruit, and even from its stem to flowers and leaves, it serves numerous purposes not only as a source of livelihood but also as a source of tradition and culture.
The coconut tree can be a source of materials for construction, food, health, cosmetics, oil,
fuel, crafts, decorations, and, especially, a drink called coconut wine, also known as tuba.
Tuba is a fermented alcoholic beverage made from the sap of the coconut tree. It is often used as a drink during special occasions and even on normal days.
Up until now, it remains extremely popular and close to the hearts of Filipino drinkers, mostly the older generations, not only because of its extraordinary taste but also because of the memories it evokes and the tradition it has established.
Roots of Wine Gathering
The practice of coconut wine gathering, or pananggiti, has existed since pre-colonial times, with the historical accounts dating its widespread use to at least the 16th century (Momo, 2025).
Ancient Filipinos fermented coconut sap not only for leisure but also for rituals, social gatherings, and trade. Coconut Wine is often consumed during communal events, negotiations, and celebrations, which symbolize the unity and shared labor within the community.
When the Spanish arrived in the 16th century, they documented the widespread consumption of fermented palm and coconut wines.
Over time, the fermentation process evolved, and variations such as aged tuba and coconut vinegar became more refined.
Keeper of the Sap
The Coconut Wine Gatherer, also known as mananggiti in Aklanon, has been practicing this tradition for generations.
This work begins before sunrise, as the mananggiti climbs each coconut tree to collect fresh sap from its unopened blossoms. This requires skills, balance, patience, and deep familiarity with the tree.
After collection, the sap is stored and fermented to shape its flavor, determining whether it turns out to be sweet or sour.
Despite modern changes and declining numbers of practitioners, many coconut wine gatherers continue to craft today, viewing it as a livelihood and a commitment to preserve the tradition.
Fermentation of Flavor
Judito "Paki" Laoz is a 61-year-old mananggiti in Sitio Camili, Ambolong, Batan, Aklan. Judito has been gathering tuba for almost 50 years.
Within a week, he can usually gather around one to two gallons of tuba, selling them for mostly PHP300, considering that he only has 3 coconut trees as a source of his tuba.
If no one buys tuba, they keep it and ferment it using their banga in order for it to be sold again, this time not as tuba but as coconut vinegar.
They consider banga an essential tool for producing high-quality coconut vinegar that everyone will enjoy.
As coconut vinegar is often used as a seasoning, the previously called tuba found its new purpose. With this, more and new people would be interested in buying.
An inebriating reality
Despite being a mananggiti, as they also don’t have any sons, Judito already gave up the thought of teaching someone how to be one. Even to his future grandsons, he didn’t push the idea that they would learn panananggot.
“Sa panahon makara, duda tang. Mingko wa ta ambi kaagi it kapobre do mga unga makaron bukon it parehas kato. Kato ta ana hay kaabo tang pobre, pag hinambae ni tatay kato nga mananggot hay mananggot ta kamo.”
He stated, smiling, yet sadness was dripping out of his words.
His words reflect a wider reality in many rural communities. A reality is that not many young men would choose panananggot and instead find safer and more stable sources of income. Causing a slowly declining population of people doing their traditional work.
Unwavering dual efforts
On the other hand, Judito’s wife, Lynn, would settle on making pawud and selling them to earn money and make ends meet. Thatching the burden and putting trust in each nipa leaf and needle in her hands.
She stated, emphasizing how important making pawud is to them. This traditional work was also learned by their daughters, from just watching her on the side to actually knowing how to do it too.
Aside from panananggot and pagpawud, the couple also tends their own palayan.
Side by side, they finish each day with tired backs and fingers, but also with certainty that they can survive each day together.
Tradition and Choice
Christopher "Chris" Flaviano is a 32-year-old mananggiti and has been gathering coconut wine for 12 years. Panananggot is a traditional work that was taught to him by his deceased father. In contrast, passing on this conventional work is something he doesn't expect much of.
For one week, he can gather around one or more containers of tuba, which may cost PHP 500. This way, he can use his earnings to buy their everyday necessities and fulfill his roles as a husband and father of two.
In addition to gathering coconut wine, he also manages catfish farms, livestock, and oyster beds. He employs a diverse yet thoughtful approach to earn a living and provide the necessary support for his family.
From a child who looks up to his wine-gatherer father to being a wine-gatherer himself and a father of two.
From Booze to Seasoning
Aside from being a coconut wine, tuba may also be used as vinegar in 3 to 14 days. From the sweet sap of alcohol to a piquant vinegar. The longer it is fermented properly, the more sour and tasty it becomes.
Coconut vinegar, or tuba, can also be used in a variety of Filipino recipes to bring out the delicate sweetness, depth, and balanced flavor.
Some Filipino cuisines that use vinegar include Paksiw, Tinubaang Manok, Adobo, Sinugba marinades, kinilaw, sinabawan, and others. Coconut vinegar can also be used as a dipping sauce; it eliminates the fishiness of raw fish and the slipperiness of fish like catfish.
Steps on how to cook Tinubaang Manok
Tinubaang manok is a traditional Filipino chicken dish cooked using tuba (coconut wine) as its main ingredient, giving it a unique balance of sweet, slightly sour, and mildly bitter flavors.
The ingredients used in the video are the following: chicken, tuba (coconut wine), garlic, onions, ginger, salt, pepper, lemongrass, and optional herbs.
Step 1: Prepare the chicken and put it into the bowl.
Step 2: Rub the salt all around the chicken to season it.
Step 3: Chop the onions, garlic, and ginger.
Step 4: Put the chopped ingredients inside the chicken together with the lemongrass to enhance its aroma and flavor.
Step 5: Pour some tuba into the pot.
Step 6: Add soy sauce for additional flavor.
Step 7: Put the chicken into the pot.
Step 8: Cook on low heat and let it simmer for about 30 minutes.
Step 9: While boiling, check the chicken from time to time.
Step 10: Carefully flip the chicken to ensure both sides are evenly cooked.
Step 11: Once the liquid has reduced and the chicken is fully cooked, the Tinubaang Manok is ready.
Finally, chop the chicken evenly before serving it to the family.
Where Culture simmers
Tinubaang Manok is a well-known Filipino dish found in several secluded areas of Aklan. The dish highlights the cultural significance of tuba, or coconut wine, which serves as its primary ingredient and defines its distinct character. According to elders in the community, Tinubaang Manok is traditionally prepared by steaming or boiling native or non-native chicken, depending on individual preference. Its flavor profile presents a balanced combination of mild sweetness, subtle bitterness, and gentle sourness, derived from the use of fermented coconut wine as the main cooking liquid.
As the dish simmers, the natural sugars present in the tuba gradually caramelize, producing a delicate sweetness, while its fermented properties impart a light tang and bitterness that enhance the overall depth of flavor.
It is commonly served during special occasions, not only due to its simplicity of preparation but also because of its widely appreciated taste. More importantly, the dish fosters a sense of unity, bringing people together through shared meals and cultural traditions.
Mananggiti Terminologies
These images show the tools commonly used by a mananggiti, the traditional preparation process. They are essential in carefully cleaning, shaping, and readying the materials, reflecting the skill and patience passed down through generations.
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